Diseño de un emulgel fitocosmético a partir del aceite de la semilla de Salvia hispánica L. (chía) y ácido hialurónico

Abstract

Chia oil is distinguished by its high content of essential fatty acids and the presence of antioxidant compounds, such as tocopherols and polyphenols. Phytocosmetics emerge as an attractive alternative, incorporating compounds of plant origin for skin care. Thus, emulgel offers important benefits for the topical application of medications as an advanced pharmaceutical form. Hyaluronic acid has become an essential ingredient in cosmetology, due to its excellent compatibility and the multiple benefits it offers to the skin. For this reason, the purpose of this work was to design an emulgel for phytocosmetic purposes, from the seed oil of Salvia hispánica L. (chia), and hyaluronic acid using relevant statistical and technological methods. For the development of the research, chia oil supplied by the Ecuadorian company Chakra Seed Akasha Food Rachel Sait Co was used, which was completed as a quality control where similar values ​​reported in the literature were obtained, such as pH of 5.09 ± 0.428, refractive index of 1.4353 ± 0.0826, density of 0.97 ± 0.08 g/ml.From these results, the formulation of an emulgel was developed using a mixture with restrictions, in which the interaction between carbopol 940, tween 80 and mineral oil was evaluated. To prepare it, first the emulsion was prepared, whose oil phase contained mineral oil, while the aqueous phase included tween 80, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, ethanol and distilled water. In parallel, a carbopol-based gel was formulated, combining it with distilled water and adjusting the pH with triethanolamine. Finally, the emulsion was incorporated into the gel in a 1:1 ratio, thus obtaining the final emulgel. pH and extensibility are taken into account as response variables. The results obtained for pH were validated due to its proximity to the pH of the skin, which approaches 4 to 6. When the acidity of the skin is altered, the effectiveness of its protective barrier is reduced. The Jamovi statistical program in version 2.4.8.0 was used, focusing on pH and extensibility, working with 8 experiments. A sensory evaluation was carried out through surveys applied to 41 seventh and ninth semester students. Professors from the Biochemistry and Pharmacy majors also participated, which showed good acceptance. Finally, three batches of formulation 5 were prepared, which presented optimal organoleptic properties and a pH of 4.15, which suggests good compatibility with the skin. Centrifugation tests and freezing-thawing tests were also performed. The emulgel has a soft texture, is absorbed quickly, does not cause irritation and maintains adequate viscosity and extensibility. The result of this study was satisfactory. The development of this cosmetic product was carried out based on chia phytocosmetic emulgel and hyaluronic acid with nutritional properties to improve the skin, using natural resources, standing out in formulation 5 for its high sensory acceptance and its physical stability in preliminary tests.