Diseño de una crema fitocosmética a partir de un extracto hidroalcohólico de las cáscaras de nephelium lappaceum l (achotillo).

Abstract

In the cosmetic sector, the creation of formulations using natural components is still a hurdle. Nephelium lappaceum L., (Achotillo) peels are often discarded without recognising their potential in terms of metabolites and skin benefits. Therefore, the aim of this work was to develop a cream from hydroalcoholic extract of Nephelium lappaceum L. (achotillo) peel using a D-Optimal blend design for cosmetic purposes. Quality analysis of the crude drug was carried out and the following values were obtained: particle size 0.54 mm, residual moisture 4.77%, ethanol soluble substances (80%) 64.52% and total ash 2.54%. On the other hand, similar values reported in the literature were obtained for the extract, such as pH 3.94, refractive index 1.3520 nD, density 0.89 g/mL, total solids 8.08% and DPHH 9.0603 mg/g TEAC. A previous O/W formulation study was carried out with variations in components and proportions. Formulation 1 was selected as it had suitable conditions and fewer excipients, reducing production costs; pH and extensibility were measured to determine quality criteria. A cosmetic cream was designed using D-optimal mixture design with constraints using three components: self-emulsifying wax, cetyl alcohol and water. The variables of interest were pH and extensibility. The statistical software Design Expert 12 was used and 15 experiments were performed. The data were fitted to linear models with significance p<0.05, loss of fit p>0.05 and R2 0.7829. The sensory evaluation, carried out by means of questionnaires administered to 50 students of Biochemistry and Pharmacy in the ninth and tenth semesters, showed good acceptance, for which Multiple Correspondence Analysis (MCA) was used as a multivariate analysis tool to explore the relationships between categories of significant variables. Finally, three batches of formulation 13 were produced with optimal organoleptic properties and a pH of 5.10, indicating an affinity with the skin. The cream has a smooth texture, is rapidly absorbed, non-irritating and maintains adequate viscosity and extensibility. Freeze-thaw cycling and centrifugation tests were also carried out. The resulting formulations showed no evidence of bacterial or fungal growth in microbiological analysis. It was possible to develop a quality phytocosmetic cream from the hydroalcoholic extract of the peel of Nephelium lappaceum L. with physical and technological properties, with formulation 13 showing excellent sensory acceptance and physical stability in preliminary tests.